Tuesday, 12. June FR Calais (F) – BE Mons (H)
189 km (117 miles) while 145
km (90 miles) by train (Calais -
Valenciennes)
Instead of cycling the same way back through the north of France I choose a
route in the south of Belgium. For the first part I took the train as there are a lot of towns along my route
to Valenciennes. It's alway difficult cycling through such areas.
The further plan was to stop cycling and use the train once more as soon as I was reaching Germany.
In Lille I had to change the train. I used the 45 minutes for a quick walk
around. At least I got an impression of that beautiful town.
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Valenciennes - Main Station
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In Valenciennes I left the train and cycled to Grand-Hornu which is an
architectural monument. In the centre there are all buildings of a coal mine.
Around that centre the owner built between 1810 and 1830 a village for his staff.
The houses are still there and inhabited. An audio guide explained a lot of
back ground which is covered in little stories.
Another time I had good luck as a museum education officer spoke fluently
German. 25 years ago he worked for some years at IBM in Sinelfingen where I was
also working. But now we met us in the south of Belgium at the first time!
He offered a lot of tips and at the end of some phone calls he arranged
that I got a cheap room in Mons to stay overnight. All the others were much more expensive. He described the way over an old
railroad which was recently changed to a cycle lane. Only the last half an hour
when I was cycling it started raining and I arrived at Roseline’s little house
totally wet.
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Rosaline's little, white
house where I stayed the two days in Mons
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After I was refreshed I asked for a restaurant where I could get a
local specialty and went to the Grand Palce for dinner into the restaurant
Excelsior. That was the only time when I went to a restaurant. All the other days on my tour I had picnic.
Next to me there was a table where some locals came together having
a drink. I asked them for a typical meal and they recommended ‘Cote Porc L
‘Bertouille’ which is a pork chop (Schweinekotelett) with a delicious sauce and
of course with fries / chips (Pommes Frittes).
When I had finished my meal I talked to a lady next to me who is a member
of a belgium rheumatism organization http://www.barie.be/ . It was
interesting how they used biking to motivate the people to fight against their
fate.
Back to Rosaline we talked about the nice town of Mons and the area around.
Wednesday,
13. June Mons - 55 km around Mons
The weather forecast brought rain for the afternoon and as I wanted
to see more from Mons I decided staying a second day there. I started cycling
along the Canal du Centre to visit a more as 100 years old ship elevator.
Unfortunately I was misleaded at a junction and took the wrong direction. Therefore I never saw that
impressive machine :-( .
Back to Mons I walked around the city which is very nice. It will be the
European Culture Capital in 2015 together with Pilsen in the Szech Republic.
The slogan
will be „Where Technology meets Culture“.
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Cathedral and left to it
Mons' Landmark - the Beffoi
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Rosaline with one of her
hats (Cleopatra)
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In the evening I had a long and interesting conversation with Rosalind
about history, culture, Europe, war, peace and freedom. She is an artist
in painting, weaving (weben) and creating beautiful, unique hats.
Rosaline was very familiar with the area which I planned to cross on my way
to Germany and gave me a lot of useful hints and tips.
When I left Mons I cycled to the Grand Place. At the front of the tonw hall
is a little monkey. You have to put your left hand on the head of the monkey
and you should wish something - but never tell somebody about what
you wished. When I arrived at the town hall a friendly staff came along and asked me if he should take a photo from me. Of course I accepted that friendly offer.
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What was Wolfgang wishing???? You
never know......
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Thursday, 14. June Mons (H) – Dinant (I) - 94 km
For the trip to Dinant I had a friendly weather: About 20 degrees and a mix
of sun and nice clouds. With the tips from Rosaline I choose a route which
leads me to the very nice town Dinant at the Meuse (Maas).
When I arrived I entered at first an excellent Boulangerie and had a
delicious piece of cake together with a chocolade. Afterwards I visited the
tourist information and asked if they could arrange a cheap accommodation in
the next town. As that was not possible and Dinant is such a nice town
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dinant I decided
to stay here overnight and to do some sightseeing.
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Dinant - Patisserie Jacobs
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The best known person of Dinant is Monsieur Sax who developed the Saxophon.
You can see colorful painted models of this instrument all over the town. The
most are on a bridge.
One of the famous buildings is the abbey Leffe which is brewing a
famous beer. I prefer the Leffe Blonde-Blond which tastes so mild. But you have
to be careful: It contains 6,6 % alcohol – much more as the German beer.
Another famous brand is the Duvel which has 8,5 %. And there are special types
available with up to 12 %! Apart from the alcohol I would prefer the Belgium
beer much more as most of the German ones. But it’s dangerous…..
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Belgium beer - wonderful
selection - offered like wine
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Dinant - River Meuse (Maas)
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Friday,
15. June
Dinant (I)– Durbuy – Theux (J) 102 km -
max. 70 km/h!
The rain which had started last night continued when I started my tour in
the morning. After a few kilometers I entered the Bermuda triangle of my
tour: I lost at least one hour until I got the small road which should me bring
to the next town. There was an area where a lot of roads – from motorway down
to very small roads are coming together in several junctions in a area of a few
kilometers. As it was raining it was difficult to look at the map or to use my
navigation system. It is for a car and therefore not water proofed.
At the end I found the little road and it was a nice ride through the
extensive hilly landscape of the Belgium Ardennes.
Some hours later after the rain stopped
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After a while I followed the ‘Route de formage’. The local produced cheese
is including nettle (Brennnessel) and tastes excellent. Well when I’m cycling
all over the day I enjoy the simple meals which I can take in a little break at
a nice place. When I was back to the office a colleague asked me how much
weight I lost over the tour. My answer was: “Nothing – but I eat at least
double as much as normal.” :-)
Following Rosaline’s recommendation I followed a nice valley and made
a break in the picturesque town of Durbuy where I bought some sausages and smoked
ham.
Durbuy's paradise of ham and sausages
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Durbuy - Picnic with baguette, sausage and fromage
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Around Durbuy there were a lot of free rooms offered along the road.
Therefore my plan was cycle to Spa and to look a few kilometers outside for an
accommodation. I selected an indirect way to come through more villages.
But
there was nothing until I reached the little town of Theux. In the
meanwhile I think it was already 19:30. I cycled around the market place and
detected a sign “Tourist Information” and was hoping to get there a list of
addresses. But neither I found the office nor could somebody help me to sow
where it is. At the end of my round I stopped at the church.
While I was looking around a young lady parked her car and saw me.
Obviously I looked a little bit helpless and she asked me friendly something in
French. (The Southern part of Belgium where I was cycling is speaking French.)
Good luck – it was no problem for her to switch to English. She spoke a perfect
English, the best I heard on my trip outside of England. I would be happy if I
could speak so good English as she.
I explained that I was looking for an
accommodation and she asked her father. He called some numbers but it was
either too expensive or there wa no free room available. One option was a few
kilometers outside the town. I passed it before I had a great ride downhill
over a few kilometers with a maximum speed of 70 kmh (43 mph)! At the end of
the day I didn’t want cycle this extremely way back – uphill. While her father
tried to arrange an accommodation the lady told me that her parents are every
year cycling 350 km to the sea to make there holidays!
After it was clear that
no reasonable accomodation would be available that family offered kindly to be their
guest for this night! What an offer and what a honour that they trusted me.
Especially as they have to leave their house in half an hour to meet friends. IKwas so happy getting my problem resolved by such a extraordinary way!
After they had shown me what's necessary and I was refreshed I was sitting in their kitchen and enjoyed my nice dinner
and drunk the Chimnay bleu which was offered to me.
When I was sitting and looking outside to the nice garden I had to tweak me
a little bit to check if I’m dreaming or if it’s reality :-) .
The beer Chimnay is
another delicious (and dangerous - 9%!) beer brewed in a Trappiste abbey www.chimay.com/en/ in
Belgium. After my dinner I had a little walk around and went ‘home’ when it
started raining.
A few minutes later the parents came back from their event and we had a
nice and interesting conversation until we went to bed.
Saturday,
16. June - Theux – DE Home (Aidlingen)
Theux (J) –
Juenkerath (K) - 80 km
Juenkerath –
Gaertringen (Train - about 400 km)
Gaertringen
– Home 5 km (L)
The morning started with
powerful breakfast while we were continuing with our conversation. The weather
forecast was rain and about 14 degrees. Well the 14 degrees would be good but
dry would be better. Therefore I decided taking the shortest way to Germany.
In Germany we
have cheap tickets for the train which you could use over one day within one
department. The one I used was the Rheinland-Pfalz ticket for 21 EUROs (Bike
included). Only the fast ICEs are excluded.
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After I had a look in the
impressive and old church on the other side of the street I said Good Bye and
started in direction of Spa, the famous bath town. Maybe the English word we are
using in the wellness catalogues has the roots in that town? Because it was THE
town where the upper class came on holidays in the 19th century?
Just an assumption of me.
The route to Spa was easy -
following a river. In Spa I tried to buy a post card. I had also in UK some
problems getting a post card on Brighton’s pier. It looks like they
disappear due to the usage of mobile text
messages. Sometimes I’m old fashioned and write a few cards.
Well, while
looking in Spa for a post card I went into a boulangerie (bakery), a formagery
(cheese shop) and a boucherie (butcher). All like little paradises! I had a
nice situation when I was in the formagerie: I asked for the local cheese but
the staff didn’t speak English. A man told me in English that there is no local
cheese available in that area. That caused some protest of the other customers.
At the end everybody helped to explain me that there are two kind of local
cheese available and I explained (using hands and feet) that I want from both a
piece. After all was managed I was aked by a friendly old lady if I’m a German.
When I answered ‘Ja’ she smiled and said
in her friendly Cologne slang that she had helped earlier and much easier if she would have
realized that earlier. At the end everybody was happy that I got the local
cheese and I hurried up to continue with my ride.
After Spa I cycled in the rain
a never-ending road uphill. At the end I made more as 400 meter difference in
altitude (Höhenmeter) – but only a few
kilometers in the distance. I hoped that I have not to cross too many valleys
as my last train which could bring me to home started at 15:48 in Juenkerath, a
little village in Germany close to the border. But after the top was reached it
went downhill…….
Suddedenly I realized that I
was approaching the formula 1 circuit of Spa. A few minutes later I met two
young men from Finland taking photos under the welcome sign. They took one from
me and we talked a little bit.
Wolfgang
in the pole position
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There was some training
ongoing at the circuit but it was not allowed to go inside. I proceeded with
cycling. The road went along the circuit and was really hilly. Somewhere it was
possible to have a look on the circuit and the roaring racing cars. As I’d
never attended such a race it costs me some time while I was
watching the spectacle.
In the meanwhile I started
eating bananas – some while I was cycling.
I had the feeling that I have not only one minute over to reach the
train station in time and a break for a lunch was totally impossible. Good luck
– in fact I bought yesterday too much bananas – but today they rescued me.
Sometime later there was a
deviation while the direct road was renewed. I thought I MUST try getting
through. Otherwise I would miss my train. I started carefully. The road was
soaked (aufgeweicht) and rather mud (Matsch) but at the end I’d good look as
the poor part was only that piece which led through the village. Good that the
rain didn’t stop and my bicycle get washed afterwards :-)
Later on I saw a cycle path
which was build on an old rail track. Luckily it led me through a picturesque,
lonely valley and in addition it was a short cut to the road. I thought the rail
track will be flat –but that assumption was wrong: Not in the Ardennes! At
least it was the best way getting to the next town Waimes.
I stoppend when I
saw some men and asked them to confirm the road to the next little village.
Unfortunately it was in front of a Patisserie & Boulangerie. It looked
inside very inviting! I can't resist. It was clear that there was really no time – but
I must go in…. The conversation was easy as in that area people are often speaking German. Therefore my
shopping didn’t use too much time. If you are in that toen you must go to that
shop: http://www.ardennesmagazine.be/distribution/z1/waimes/waimes/heindrichs.htm If you ned nothing for you please buy some of
that delicious little pastries, cakes, pies, flams, tartes, eclaires – and
bring them to me :-)
When I passed the boarder to
Germany I joined the valley of the river Kyll – which brought me the last 20 km
down to Juenkerath. I arrived 10 minutes before my train arrived. The challenge
was now getting the special ticket for the department Rheinland-Pfalz). On the 2nd try I managed it and was
happy to enter the train – wet and tiered.
After a while I opened my bags and
eat some of the delightful things which I bought today. I had a feeling as I would
sit in a gourmet restaurant. I called my son Soeren and he got the task to
check in the Internet where I have to change the trains.
I was so happy sitting in the
warm train and getting dry and having all that good things. I had also a few
hours time while I was thinking about the last 3 ½ weeks.
What a great time for me
- and hopefully for all the people I met!
I received so many “Bon voyage!” and “Bon courage!”, “Take care”, “Good
journey” and “Good luck” and I had always the feeling that it’s more as just a
few words. That was a great experience for me – especially as a German who was cycling a few hundreds kilometers and miles through areas which were heavily war-ravaged and where we were not as friends.
Considering
the history of that areas and looking at the cemeteries it’s
great that nowadays I can cross the same zones being welcomed and supported
like an good old friend.
We are often complaining that
times are getting worse. My trip showed me crystal clear that a lot of things
are getting better, in a lot of little steps over many years, but at the end
there is a big improvement to the past.
Thanks all for your great
support and the valuable conversations. Keep it in your mind as a little
sunbeam which you could keep in your heart.
When sitting in the train I
thought: Could that all be true??? What else will happen until I’m at home?
Well – two little things:
First a conductor explained that I have to change the
platform at next stop which is the end of the line. But my nest line will be the same train. It’s just moving out of the station and coming back to the other
platform. He’ll ask the locomotive driver if he would allow that I'm staying inside
while everybody is advised to move off the train and go through the underground
to the new platform. Of course the friendly driver saved myself the change with
my heavy bike.
Next and last little story was
that I planned to cycle from Pforzheim 40 km to home, starting at 00:15. Using the train would take as long but would be more expensive. After I entered
my train I sit down next to a couple who were also on their way home. We talked
a little bit and after a while they offered to join their group ticket which
was good for up to 5 persons. They had exactly the route I would use by train and therefore I
decided using the lazy version for the last part of my journey. What good luck
I had always!
Some days after I left
Eastbourne where Colin's father celebrated his 92. birthday I throught that I
could have sung him a German birthday song. Now it’s too late. But I’ll add at
least the text here to the end. The song is nearly unknown in Germany and you
can’t find it in YouTube. But I love it as it has so much positive content.
It’s for all
of you for your next birthday!
In German
Heute soll Geburtstag sein,
einen ganzen Tag,
lirum, larum, holdrio,
wer sich freuen mag.
Läuft ein Spinnlein übern Weg,
schrei nicht gleich: "Oh je!"
Mach drei Hopser in dir Höh',
dass es weiter geh'.
Fang dir einen Sonnenstrahl,
steck ihn an den Hut,
dass er nicht verloren geht
wenn‘s mal regnen tut.
And now in
English
Today it should be birthday,
over all the day,
lirum, larum, holdrio,
who else being happy.
Crossing a little spider your
way,
do not cry: "Oh je!"
Make three hopper into hight,
that it's going on.
Catch a sun beam off the air,
put it at your hat,
that it can't be lost never,
if it sometimes rains.
Please remember that as a little present from me at your next birthday. :-)
In Germany
we have a saying:
„Geteilte Freude ist doppelte Freude!“
which means:
Shared happiness is doubled happiness!
Take care
and have a good time!
The
hardest condition of that day was the high temperature - about 30 degrees - as always over
the next few days.
